Coolers can only do so much. Can you lower the room temperature to 25.5C or below?

Is there a way to get cooler room air to the existing ventilation? Such as move the PC to the floor, move other heat producing items away from it. Even to the point of not using the PC during the hottest portion of the day.

132F is pretty high but its fine for a CPU, 160F is where you start to get alarmed.

what wattage is your i3?

case fans should help but not more then just a few degrees. Im in FL and my summer room temps are around the same as yours... just gota know your stuff will run a little hotter in the summer.

Make sure that the inside of the box, and the case grills, graphics card fans, and the CPU cooling fins etc are clean and not covered in dust..makes a big difference to how cool and how quiet the box will run..

According to Intel the Max TCASE = 69.1°C for your CPU. (This is usually the temp that is shown as "CPU" in the bios health options, or in some monitoring programs. This is not the "core" temperature.

All good recommendations above, make sure it's clean.

@Hoople, i could put the fan in function, but at the moment i dont find the need of that.

J_RaD, Does it just make beeps or shuts down at a temperature it cant support the temperature and its one step to get burned?

@Leosghost, The PC Has like 6 or 7 months since i have it. Its pretty clean. The case grills are a bit dusty, but not much.

I find it stupid with the warranty #*$!. They should give it if you open it also.
How could you clean it if you arent allowed to open it without losing it?

It was better with my first pc taken on parts. I could open it at any time and screw with it.

@BillyS, Ok, thanks. I just checked on [ark.intel.com...]

If

The case grills are a bit dusty, but not much.

The CPU heat sink fins and or the Graphics card fan etc will be even dustier..and you'll have to open it anyway to mount the fan that you linked to in your OP..

Personally I open the cases of any machines I buy ( if I don't buy all the parts separately and build from components into cases *) on the first day..

Usually it is to add a lot more RAM ..or extra HDs or high end graphics cards..at which point one usually has to upgrade the power supply too..

For really specialised use, it's better to "self build" and get exactly what you want with each component having it's own guarantee..

( *But sometimes the "special offers" can get you a nice "ready built" quiet tower and good Mobo,CPU,graphics,sound combo..to use as a"base" for "projects" :)

But as there is never enough RAM..;-) I order more RAM at the same time, and open them anyway..

When I lived in the South of France,( 15 years in total ) I had regular summertime air temps of 30°C /35°C..and it was dusty..but never had machines overheat, kept them clean ( still do ) by blowing them out with compressed air every 2 or 3 months..

We had a thread about this ( how to keep them running cool ) in foo about 5 or 6 or maybe 7 years back maybe..

re the fan..bigger and slower is better..bigger fans move more air over the same time frame..and are quieter..a 200 mm fan or bigger fixed to the grill side of the machine will do more good than an 80 mm in back , although normally you want the total "air remover" diameter to be bigger or the same as "the putting the air in" total diameter larger total ..more "suck" than "blow"..;-)

You can even run with no fan pulling in, as long as you have fan(s) taking the hot air out faster than it is being created..it is all about the air flow across the heat surfaces and the evacuation of the hot air being as efficient as possible..

Or you could go water cooled :))...serious money though, and unless you are spending all day trans-coding or rendering, not really necessary..

HDs also get hotter than you would think ..they too need air flow..so if you have the sort of case where they are "stacked" towards the front with an intake behind the facia panel, put them in the bays towards the bottom( they'll get better airflow )..If you have a full stack ( all bays full ), and a "blanking plug" at the front for an auxiliary BR/CD emplacement etc..remove the "plug" and put a cut block of foam in the place..it will help air flow..and trap dust..

We could have a huge thread on "cooling" and "cooling mods", but I'm about to start cooking dinner ..so ..cheers ;-)..

maybe you or someone else can dig up that old thread we had on cooling and cleaning and temperatures ..

J_RaD, Does it just make beeps or shuts down at a temperature it cant support the temperature and its one step to get burned?

It will shut itself down, or just freeze 100%. Chips are smart these days though they won't burn themselves into the ground like the used it, it might start shaving off clock cycles to get it under control though.

I find it stupid with the warranty #*$!. They should give it if you open it also.
How could you clean it if you arent allowed to open it without losing it?

well....... I don't like normal people opening my builds and screwing around, normally results in a phone call *agh*

I can open up stuff without voiding the warranty :-D

either way to fix this problem you are going to have to poke your hands into, so just do it.

I followed your link, a 65 watt chip should NOT be running this hot. maybe a full load but idle, It shouldn't be getting past 100F

my AMD 3.4 is sitting here right now at 89F

but if you are sitting at 130F doing nothing, i'd say we need to get in there and figure out whats up, maybe even pull the heat sink clean the old compound off and reapply some new good stuff.

quick note: do you notice any processes that could be hanging pinning your CPU at 100%?

@Leosghost, My Graphic card doesnt have a cooler. It has just an aluminium radiator.
This is it: [placivideo.3e.ro...]

I have just two RAM Slots on the mother board and two pieces of 2gb for each. I cannot add any more RAMs to it, sadly.

Only thing i'd change to it would be the video card, but as i cant get a better one i will stay with this. Even if i want to change it, i could get the pc at the store and the video card, and they can attach it to it, they said. I asked that when i brought it. They said they will add any parts, and put the warranty stickers back. I have no reason to open the case, other than make my own pleasure to put my hand into it xD

The power supply is a bit small i think. 350W >,< The one from my older pc had one of 550W.
The old PS got two of 3 coolers from it broken and i had to remove them. They would move too slow and make noise.

Anyways, only thing i can complain about is the GCard. It is good enough compared to what ive had before anyways.
When i first brought my first computer at the age of 14 i used to clean it every day ! I enjoyed opening the damn thing and get all its parts out. Feelt cool ^^.

That computer was getting so hot that you couldnt let your hand on the MB or GC Radiators much as it would burn your skin. I put like 3 coolets on it back then.

Ths one dose not over heat. It is just that i have a Win7 Gadget which tellls my temp and i worried a bit.

I can do well with mother nature's air thanks. Water cooling is something i might get when i will have a damn job.

@J_RaD, Whille i was playing with my first computer, as i said above. I was messing with the pc and started the PC Without the CPU Radiator. It shut down as soon as i started it, and it got really hot. xDD

I see you use kind words saying normal :lol: You could eventually test the buyers with questions and see if they know anything about computers. If they do, let them stick their hands into it when i they need.

How can you open them ? o.O You know a secret way of un-glueing the sticker and put it back? :p

My computer doesnt work at full power.
It gows from 1% to 12% or max 16 % at the moment, and its ..... Wait!
The temperature i read and told you guys about was the GPU One, not the CPU ! >,<
The CPU Temperature is 41 to 43C, and the GPU One is 52 to 53C.
Mother board is 27C.
HDD is 35C.

How can you open them ? o.O You know a secret way of un-glueing the sticker and put it back? :p

you get hardware certified, all manuf consent anything you do doesn't void.

NOW your CPU temps sound NORMAL... actually ALL your temps sound NORMAL. you have no problems :-)

Well, thank you and sorry for the confusion.

Might i ask more details about the hardware certified thing that you are saying?

Thats a certificate that you get and allows you to get your hand in any devices without losing the warranty?

i'll pm you the stuff.

System Case
As already stated: de-dust it. This is the #1 cause of excess heat. The inlet grills, the fan blades, the CPU heatsink, the PSU all clog up. De-dust and you will notice it a lot quieter and cooler.

GFX
You say it's the graphics card that is hot. If you are not using it for games then just underclock it. Using software you can lower the core frequency and ram speed settings. This will make it run cooler.

I dont use it for games. I only installed a couple new games but i dont really play much anymore. I dont think it is underclock. Would you have such a software?

here you go man hahah

[hardwaresecrets.com...]

On the subject of dusty computers..
[theregister.co.uk...]

There are more links to "why it might be running a little hot" at the bottom of that article..

@J_RaD, Does that Dracula thing have anything to do that i'm Romanian? :P

@Leosghost, I would never let my pc turn even 10% of that .....

Well i have just finished setting up my pc.
I opened it and clened it of dust, and also put 4 more screws.
i have come to notice that people that build computers, dont care to add the scres on the second side of the computer. They add only two screws on the side where you can see the parts.

Does anyone know why, are they too lazy to get the second side unscrewed and add a couple more screws?

Anyways, i had to get in/out the video card twice as it wouldnt work.
First time it was sending no video signal, but the computer was starting as i could hear the sounds. Then i got it out and put it back, and it started, but the pc froze and it made weird noise as i was on utube. When i restarted it, it gave some graphics driver error. Got it out again and its working fine now. It was weird. I guess that the pins werent making contact well?

this is the reason I do my builds with all panels off until its 100% patched updated and ready to be put into a box. just sloppy lazy people slapping stuff together.

I've got one here where the tech didn't even bother to pin in the front USB ports... because he would have had to do it pin by pin instead of the nice connector like your normally get, so he just wrapped them up and hid them with the extra power wires. I've downloaded the manual and did it myself.


------------------------

yea sounds like your card wasn't seated well.

Then you are doing your job properly.
I have a cousin that got a new computer made by parts, and when i put some ram in it, i noticed that he had screws on just a part. Same happening to me with this new computer, they all seem to do this nasty #*$!.

Another cousin that brought a new computer, didnt have its front usb ports and speaker ports installed also ! I told her to go and ask them to, but she hasnt. I did wondered why havent they put them in. They werent even in the case, if they were i could have tried to connect them.

Is there a way to be sure that you insert the videocard or ram sticks well into the motherboard?
I always seem to stick them wrong at the first time.

Ram can be tough to push down, but the slots and the side clamps ensure the corrrect fit.

yea ram and video cards all have tabs, ram is fine as long as both tabs are down.

video cards can get screwy, if it doesn't feel right just redo it, you can also look and make sure the card is sitting even.

@RaD, i dont agree with that. On my older computer it was a challange to place the ram sticks inside. I had 3 slots and i couldnt have figure "the right combination" to put them in. If i put one stick, it was working.. if i added the second.. working.. adding the 3th. BEEEP... i could have taken the first two out and it would work tho. It was weird. i used to get the RAM out quite often, i guess the slots were a bit messed up.

By the way, it seems that on this motherboard i dont have the bigger PCI slots that are white coloured, where you can insert extra lan/video/tvtunner/audio cards. I just a have like 3 small slots which i never knew what they were for.

This is my motherboard [emag.ro...]

those are PCIE x1 slots, you can buy sound cards and stuff like that, that will be PCIEx1.

very barebones board though.

So it seems, i think i had PCIE x8 on my old Computer.
Whats the difference between them?

I guess the PCIE x1 slots are the lamest around?
Do you think my motherboard is at least acceptable, or lame due to this?
I sort of hate it that it has just two RAM slots. could have anned more, even if i dont need more than 4.

yea its the slowest, it actually moves around the same amount of data the normal white PCI slots. PCI x1 x2 xwhatever just means how much data they can move.

The board is fine, its an MSI so thats pretty good.. its just very basic.... like your 2 ram slots, nothing wrong with it just kinda limited on what you can do.

Yes, i have seen that here: [scsi4me.com...]
i saw that people just cut the extra pins and used bigger cards, like PCI X8 as a PCI X1, is that really possible? It works if you just cut the pins out? I find it kinda silly. Why brake a good card when you can sell it and buy the right one.. whatever.

Thank you for your reply. Are MSI Crds any better than others?
I had a Gigabyte on the old PC, and it work well.

uhhhh thats some pretty hack job stuff, i'd never try it to find out.


MSI, gigabyte, asus, tyan They all make quality stuff.....others, not so much.

TheKiller - I've used gigabyte, MSI and Asus. I had a problem with the MSI board, but that's going back about ten years ago and everyone had the same problem (capacitors that leaked - not in use anymore).

Generally, I don't build a new computer until I think I can get at least twice the speed of the old one. That means I might own the PC for 4 years or so. For that reason, I tend to purchase higher end (not the best) components. (My current PC is based on the Asus P8Z68 Pro V, with an Intel 2600K cpu.

Perhaps the biggest difference I've seen in the last ten years are solid state drives. Anything with a SandForce SF-2280 controller flies.